Branching Out! (Or should I say, Brunching Out)

So, in addition to beer, you may or may not know, I also write about food and booze here in New Orleans. I had a separate blog for this, once upon a time, which I haven't posted to for like 5 years. But these days, I'm trying to expand my brand so that it encompasses all the stuff I do - eating, drinking, travelling, writing.

So this website will expand in focus as I plan to write about Things Other Than Beer.

Like today's post about two Uptown brunch experiences I've enjoyed recently.


It may surprise you (or not), but in general, I hate brunch. I know a lot of service industry folks hate it, it's crowded, I'm not caffeinated enough, I don't know how fresh that Hollandaise sauce is, and often the food is more or less meh.

I know that in New Orleans, that's a pretty heretical statement, but it's how I feel.

BUT.

I've discovered two brunches I can really get behind.

One is Chef Jason Goodenough's brunch at Carrollton Market, which is now available Thursday through Sunday every week. And when I say it's Chef Goodenough's brunch, it literally is his brunch. It's the only time you can reliably see him working the line in his open kitchen and he takes great pride in his work.

In the afterglow of Carrollton Market's review upgrade from three to four of food critic Brett Anderson's "bean" rating, brunch is the perfect vehicle to see the magic happen.

OK, first of all, the cinnamon buns. In the words of Food & Wine's David Landsel, they're "One of the Best Cinnamon Rolls of 2017 is on a Brunch Menu in New Orleans." The dough, those candied pecans... OMG. Landsel's story goes into much greater detail about it, and I recommend checking it out if you're in the mood to start drooling.

I tried a bunch of dishes (with every intention of paying for them, but they ended up being comped, so thanks for that, Chef!) and damn. The scrambled eggs are slow cooked and so soft, the bernaise sauce is beautiful, and the Goodenough oyster French style omelet is executed perfectly (no brown spots!) and even more importantly, tastes amazing.

I went on a Thursday late morning (brunch starts at 10) and it was super quiet and chill. I sat up at the kitchen bar and was able to see the brunch prep in action, which I highly recommend. Now, I like my meals on the quiet and chill side, but this place needs more people there on Thursday and Friday- it makes my heart hurt that more people aren't experiencing this brunch! So check it out on your lunch break or something, and bring back a cinnamon roll for the office (or try to eat it all in your car, whatever works for you.)

My other brunch love is courtesy of the newly opened Saffron, where I was able to snag a reservation for its first brunch at the end of its first week open to the public. It's Indian flavors and classic dishes playfully matched with brunch traditions. The dosas, in particular, are exquisite, and you can get a classic one with potatoes and onions, or the anda dosa which comes with an egg, or the Say Cheese dosa, which is basically a cheese omelet in crepe form, and all of those words sound delicious, so you can't go wrong.

The small plates we tried were beautiful, bright pops of flavor, like the Pani-Puri shots, which balance a sweet-sour-savory-fresh combination of potatoes, chick peas, and tamerind-mint-cilantro water on a tiny puffy puri cracker, which you're meant to pop in your mouth in one go.

The shrimp vada was a shrimp laden beignet and there's not much to do to improve on that, because it was awesome.

I realllllly want to go back to try: more dosas, one of the uttapam savory pancakes topped with various things, and the curried brisket and grits. Also everything else, and wash it all down with a masala bloody mary which is spiced with unusual ingredients found frequently in Indian dishes.

Before signing off on Saffron and brunch in general, I need to mention the perfection of the Jammin' Jamun, a traditional fried dough in syrup dish, but the syrup is made with saffron and the accompanying fig-date-praline ice cream is so good that I actually asked if I could get a pint to go. (Spoiler alert: no.)

Saffron's brunch is only on Sunday, and is quite popular. The service is great - attentive, knowledgeable, and friendly. One of the owners was checking in with every table when we were there, not sure if it was because it was the first brunch service or if it's something he'll be doing every week.

So! Brunches even a brunch-grinch like me can love.